Be carried off to the Aegean

IT is true what my friend the late Larry Adler replied when asked which was the best restaurant: “Where they know you.”
I have been coming to Andy’s (opened in 1968) for many years when Koullis was the chef.
Now he fronts the house with charm, making the patrons feel at home.
The regulars are recognised and their preferences are remembered. Andy’s Taverna is divided into two rooms – one has the bar and the other has the exhibition kitchen with a beautiful fruit bowl next to it.
I prefer the latter and watch how the dishes materialise one after the other from this rather small but very organised area. They also have a patio which seats 30.
The thalassi (pale sea) coloured walls with lovely paintings of boats and sea views give an atmosphere of tranquillity with the soft Greek music in the background. I had hoped to hear my favourite song: Maria ma ta Kitrina (Maria in the Yellow Dress) but it was not part of the music selection whilst I was there.
The sea bass and sea bream come fresh from Cyprus three times weekly so tsiboura and lavraki are just what you would have in the island of Aegina.
Opting not to have the mezedes and out of a large selection of hors d’oeuvres which included an aubergine dip, broad beans and artichokes, garlic Greek sausages, stuffed vine leaves, spinach and feta cheese pastry parcels, we started with the more conservative kalamari (deep-fried squid) £8.95 and avocado prawns (£4.95) which were very good.
There is a large selection of vegetarian dishes including a vegetarian platter (£9.50) featuring a selection of dishes served with Greek salad. There is also Andy’s fish platter for two (£22.95) which includes taramasalata, houmous, fish salad, sea bass, swordfish and king prawns with salad and Cyprus chips.
The traditional mezedes (selection of various Greek dishes £13.95) is very popular although we opted to have kleftico (£9.95) as our main course served with potatoes and Greek salad.
The baked lamb melts in your mouth and the taste is delicious. Dessert consisted of a fruit platter: pears, kiwi, bananas and oranges with bits of baklava. The house wine label, matching the colours of the walls, was excellent. Blanc Cambas (£9.95) is dry and light and a good example of the Mediterranean heritage in Pikermi, Attica.
Andy’s are offering two Christmas menus (lunch £l4.95 and dinner £19.95).
They offer the Greek speciality mezedes but on request you can also order the traditional turkey for a main course. Andy’s Taverna is better than just ‘entaxy’, which mean okay in Greek.

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Andy’s Taverna
81 Bayham Street, NW1
020 7485 9718