Sabor the flavour of Latin America

A LONG lacquered bar takes three quarters of the length of the restaurant to the right-hand side with tables opposite up to the exhibition kitchen. The large mirrors behind the bar reflect the orange, purple and green crystal elongated vases, coloured night candles, a large flower arrangement and about 75 bottles of spirits and liqueurs.
I never forget tastes and fragrances – like pictures and perfumes they remain imprinted in one’s mind – and so when the food arrived it took me back to my years in South America.
On arrival being alone I asked if I could sit at the bar to have dinner. The owner, Esnayder Cuartas, sporting a large smile and pointing to a stool said: “If you are happy, I am happy”.
He is from Colombia and it was apparent that his years in London had not cooled his warm South American hospitality like.
I ordered a Pisco sour. Watching the barman squeeze the limes augured that I would be getting the real thing. It was delicious and the largest one I have ever had. Plum olives with garlic were the perfect accompaniment.
I studied the menu unable to choose from the Colombian classic soup, made with roasted pumpkin and spices (£3.75), salt cod salad with red peppers, avocado and pickled garlic-caper remoulade (£4.95), crisp savoury pancakes of fresh corn, served with chunks of tender avocado in a lime and avocado dressing (£4.25), or two types of Ceviche (fish stew) (£7.90). I then spotted the Tamal de Berenjena under main Courses (£8). So I ordered it as a starter. Simply delicious.
The parcel of goat’s cheese, mushrooms and aubergines in a soft corn dough and wrapped in a corn husk was served with plantain crisps. I was delighted to find corn bread amongst several slices of home made bread brought with some olive oil. The Chilean glass of Sauvignon Las Mercedes, J Bouchon (£4.50) was the right choice.
The menu offers a melange of South America specialities. Ambitious in not only having dishes from several countries but also combining classical cuisine with ‘new Latin’.
The restaurant was bursting with patrons. Large parties enjoying the happy ambience and excellent service. The halibut sautéed in chorizo oil with saffron and chive mashed potatoes (£13.50) is worth mentioning. The salsa served with it enhances the taste and gives it the ‘sabor criollo’.
Try the figs in cinnamon syrup with home-made queso blanco (cheese) (£3.50) and a glass of the Moscatel de la Marina (£3.50).
Sabor offer a brunch menu with dishes ranging from £3.50 to £8.00 and a three course set dinner menu for £ 17.50 (from Tuesdays to Thursdays).
Sabor makes Essex Road proud and if more restaurants like this were to settle here it would become just as well known as its neighbouring Upper Street.

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Sabor
108 Essex Road, N1.
020 7226 5551