Watching the legs at Mosaico

A warm welcome awaits diners at this superb Italain restaurant

I NICKNAMED it ‘leg watcher’ when it was Bice. Now it is not Bice but it continues to be a ‘leg watcher’ – sit at the bar and watch who comes down!
Wear trousers unless you have beautiful legs. More a lower mezzanine than a basement, Mosaico’s décor remains much as it was before.
On arrival its open plan gives a sense of space. The tables are positioned properly to give the diner some privacy especially if you are sitting in a corner banquette next to the wall.
I was invited by my friend Claudio to this well known Italian restaurant where, as one of their regulars, a warm welcome from the Manager, Marco Fanoni, awaited him and me.
I was impressed by Chef Matteo Mistrorigo – a young man from Vicenza whose mother has been an influence in his belief of good and fresh food. Vincenza is known for its Baccala a la Vincentina.
“Never compromise quality,” Chef Matteo tells me. And I believe him having enjoyed an excellent Insalata di tonno con patate e rucola (Tuna salad with potatoes and rocket) but what makes chef Matteo’s dish special is that fresh tuna was used instead of the tinned tuna. Spezzatino di vitello su’ polenta (veal stew served on a bed of polenta) and an espresso all for £23 – (business lunch).
Claudio’s choice was equally good. Grigliata di verdure e bufala (mixed grilled vegetables with buffalo mozzarella) and Filetto di orata con radicchio e cornetti (Fillet of sea bream with radicchio and French beans).
Somehow the Italian names enhance the description of the dishes but even I who speak the language was glad for the translations – contorni are vegetables/salad; cornetti are French beans; petto di faraona arrosto is roast breast of guinea fowl and canestrelli are queen scallops.
The a la carte menu includes Insalata di granchio con piselli e rucola (Fresh crab meat salad with green peas and rocket £12).
Apart from the usual dishes one expects to find in Italian restaurants such as linguini, ravioli and lasagne it is worth to mention the Pappardelle with wild boar ragout (£12) and the Pizzoccheri from Valtellina with Savoy cabbage and Bitto cheese (£12).
Their pasta is made on the premises on a daily basis. An organic sirloin steak slices with sauted lettuces and chips are on offer (£21) and a fillet of pork infused with garlic served with fennel and olives (£19).
Before lunch we had a perfect martini, although I would recommend the Bellini – champagne/Italian pro-seco, syrup and mashed fresh peaches and lots of Pane Carasau – the thinnest bread you can imagine.
An excellent house glass of white to accompany the starter and a house red for our main course. Instead of dessert we had a delicious Frangelico. But for those of you who would rather have a ‘dolci e formaggi’ their selection includes a warm vanilla panna cotta with black cherry gelee (£7), a warm chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream (£8), a cold tomato and strawberry soup with pistachio ice cream (£7.50), a vanilla and avocado mousse with raspberry coulis (£7) and a platter of Italian cheese (£9).

Mosaico
13 Albemarle Street, Mayfair W1
Opening hours.
Lunch Mon-Fri
12pm-2.30pm
Dinner
Mon-Sat
6.30pm-10.30pm.