How Max Clifford kept things hushed

HUSH is anything but hushed unless the gossip among its famous clientele must be kept hush-hush.
Set in a private courtyard off Bond Street, almost next door to Claridge’s, Hush was assured success by the notoriety of one of its owners: Geoffrey Moore, none other than Roger’s son, and the public relations efforts of Max Clifford Associates.
However, it takes high standards in food and service to remain a major player on London’s competitive restaurant scene. And this they have achieved with excellent food and friendly staff within the variety of venues housed in their deceptively roomy premises.
I dine once a month at the private dining room, Strictly Hush, on the second floor. As a member of the lunch club (people with interests in film and TV) we meet there the last Friday of every month. The food is of the highest standard: fillet of salmon and cous cous royal; Mars bar cheesecake served with vanilla ice cream and a glass of house wine for £30.
Additional glasses of wine cost £4 for San Rapael Chardonnay or Merlot and £5.25 for Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc or L’ardeche Pinot Noir.
The bar and brasserie, Hush Ground and restaurant Hush Up offer an ingenious menu which includes starters from £5.50 to £16.50 – caramelised onion and gruyere tart (£6.50), whole globe artichoke with a red onion confit (£7.50), strictly meze plate (£11.50), half lobster with horseradish potatoes (£16.50).
Salads range from £7.50 to £16.50 endive, pecorino and walnut (£7.50), pousse, spinach and avocado (£9.50), deep-fried south Indian chicken (£10.50), rare tuna with soy and ginger dressing (£16.50). Egg, pasta and rice dishes from £7 to £9 with my old favourite smoked salmon and scrambled eggs (£9 to £13).
A good choice is the Hush hamburger or steamed Scottish mussels for £13.50 or a fillet of sea bass with creamed celeriac mash and truffle dressing at £23.50 or calf’s liver and grilled rib-eye of Scottish steak with caper and mustard butter for £22.50. For side dishes there is roasted fennel with capers and olives, minted peas and carrots (£4.50) and mixed or green herb salad at £5.50. Desserts all at £6.50 include sticky toffee pudding with crème fraiche and a glazed lemon tart.
If you like cocktails try an Absolute Hush which is a mix of champagne, Absolut vodka, Chambord orange bitters and raspberry puree. The Geoffrey Moore original is called the Hurricane which combines absinthe with fresh lime juice and cranberry.
According to Jamie Barber: “We believe that service is just as important as the food. To us being a waiter is a profession and the service at Hush reflects that.”
Well said. Isn’t it then time for the country to view it that way? The service charge would disappear and be replaced by a proper salary to all concerned. Hush has a 12.5 per cent service charge.

Hush
8 Lancashire Court, Brook Street, W1S
020 7659 1500
Monday to Friday 7.30am-12.30am
Saturday 11am-12.30am