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The Review - FOOD AND DRINK - Cooking with CLARE
Published: 19 March 2009
 
A recipe for lemongrass and basil mussels
A recipe for lemongrass and basil mussels
Shop talk and market forces

Clare Latimer spends a morning at Parliament Hill Fields farmers’ market amid concerns the stallholders are muscling in on local trade

I WAS asked by the Farmers’ Market promoters to have a look at the market at Parliament Hill Fields and see what might be done about the unrest of shopkeepers in Swain’s Lane, who fear trade is suffering as a result of the Saturday market.
It was a lovely sunny day and the market was humming with grown-ups, kids, dogs tied up near the sizzling sausages – the wonderful smells wafting past their noses – and the overall atmosphere was local, friendly and just what we want more of in London. What could be better than parking for free on Saturdays, having a lovely walk over the Heath, buying some fresh farmer’s goodies and then wandering up to Swain’s Lane where tailor-made breakfasts were being dished out all morning?
It’s true the cafés were heaving but I have to say the shops were empty.
I went into the florists and got a rather unfriendly welcome. When I explained that I wanted to try and help with their Saturday problem I was told in no uncertain way that I could do nothing so I took their word and left.
I then went into the fruit and veg shop and was misunderstood there as well. They did suggest that perhaps the market could be on a Sunday which I thought a good idea but when I suggested to them that perhaps they could shut on a Saturday and open on a Sunday I might well have said that a tsunami was on its way over the Heath.
Forks, the stunning cheese and deli shop, were very chatty and are selling perfect French and Italian cheeses that complement the English market cheeses and Corks the off-licence I am sure would take off in the afternoon.
The market is only there from 10am-2pm so perhaps the shops should open in the afternoon and have some time off work. Farmers don’t get this choice and work seven days a week anyway. Maybe Swain’s Lane has other issues as the lovely hardware shop had to shut fairly recently and my own experience of the Primrose Hill market (now shut for building reasons) was that it worked well with Yeomans greengrocers as they started a juice bar to make use of the extra crowds; Barratt’s the butcher felt the same.
My feeling is that the shops need to give a fresh twist and the market carries on, bringing in the friendly crowds.

Cream of carrot and ginger soup
Buy the butter, carrots and onions in the market and then buy the bay leaf and ginger in the shop in Swain’s Lane. Serve one of the wonderful cheeses from Forks deli, and with a bottle of wine from Corks off-licence you will have a perfect supper and all will be happy…hopefully. Buy either spring daffs from the market or more exotic ones from the florist.

Ingredients
Serves 4

50g butter
700g carrots, peeled and chopped
2 onions, peeled and chopped
1 bay leaf
1 knob fresh ginger, peeled and grated
30 fl oz chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 fl oz double cream.

Method
Melt the butter in a large heavy-based saucepan and gently sauté the carrots, onion, bay leaf and ginger for about three minutes.
Add the chicken stock, salt and pepper and cook for 15 minutes.
Remove the bay leaf and blend until smooth.
Return to the saucepan and add the cream and check seasoning.
Serve hot.

Lemon grass and basil mussels
The fish in farmers’ markets could not be fresher so make the most of it – mussels were abundant last week.
Again, buy the lemon grass, ginger and basil from the greengrocers in Swain’s Lane.

Ingredients
Serves 4

1.75kg fresh mussels in their shells
2 lemon grass stalks
6 fresh basil sprigs, roughly chopped
Knob fresh root ginger, peeled and grated
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
5fl oz fish stock.

Method
Scrub the mussels under cold running water, scraping off any barnacles with a small, sharp knife.
Pull or cut off the hairy “beards”.
Discard any that are open.
Cut each lemon grass stalk in half and bash with a rolling pin.
Put the mussels, lemon grass, chopped basil, ginger, shallots and stock in to a large saucepan.
Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for five minutes or until all the shells are open.
At this point discard any that have not opened.
Remove the lemon grass and serve immediately.

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