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Jean Christophe Slowik (left), Cristophe Fabre and Laurent Valentino |
You can’t beat a French classic
L’Absinthe makes Clare Latimer’s heart grow fonder as she serves up some typical French dishes, courtesy of her next door neighbours
I AM sure that most of you by now know that Jean Christophe Slowik, known to all locals as jc, opened a gem of a restaurant right beside my shop about a year ago and from the moment the door was open he has been full and turning away up to 200 people per week.
Well, enough praise for him, he gets plenty. But let’s go behind the scenes and see who does the work. (jc will slap me for that cheeky remark!)
Christophe Fabre, the head chef, started his career in England at Le Méridien Piccadilly. He then went on to be sous chef at Bellamy’s Restaurant and then head chef at the Bleeding Hart Tavern before opening l’Absinthe with jc and Laurent Valentino.
The food is typically French, using top quality ingredients and kept to a constant, very high standard.
The other star of the party is the newly wed Laurent who is jc’s right-hand man. Everyone loves him to bits as he is always smiling.
Nothing is too much trouble and the trio combine to make the perfect trip to France without being attacked by the euro exchange and, of course, the cost and energy of getting across the Channel.
Bon voyage!
Here are two recipes from these culinary experts.
Classic French onion soup
Serves 8
Perfect to fend off colds and flu at this time of year and easy to freeze in portions, just adding the toast and cheese when serving.
Ingredients
100g butter
8 large onions peeled and thinly sliced
350ml dry white wine
3.5litres veal stock (if you can’t make your own use a veal or beef stock cube)
2 tbsp plain flour
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon dried thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
for serving
8 slices of toast
300g of Emmental cheese.
Method
In a large heavy saucepan, melt the butter and add the onions, cook until caramelised, stirring frequently.
Add the flour and stir until well blended.
Add the bay leaves, dried thyme and white wine and bring to the boil. Add the veal stock and bring back to the boil, then reduce the heat and cook for 45 minutes. Add the salt and pepper and check seasoning.
To serve
Pre-heat grill. Fill the bowl ¾ full of soup, place 1 slice of toast on the soup and cover with cheese. Grill for about three minutes or until bubbling and browning.
Serve immediately and enjoy it...
Confit of duck with braised savoy cabbage
One of my favourites in the restaurant as quite time consuming to do but now’s your chance to have a go. I like the idea that we have slimmer legs in England!
Ingredients
Serves 8
8 duck legs (must be the fat ones from France; you can get them in the Deli Comptoir Gascon in Smithfield)
800g of coarse salt
3kg of duck or goose fat
10g of dried thyme
garnish
2 small savoy cabbages
2 carrots (cut in very tiny cubes )
25g of butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Method
Marinate the duck legs in the salt with the thyme for eight hours.
Melt the duck or goose fat in a large, heavy saucepan. Wash the duck under cold water very well and dry properly.
Sear the legs in a frying pan, and place them gently in the duck or goose fat.
Bring slowly to the boil, then reduce the heat. Cook for four hours until meat is soft. Leave to rest on a grille to get rid of excess fat
Chop the cabbage in four and then in small squares. Bring a saucepan of salty water to the boil add the cabbage and cook for about two minutes.
Melt the butter in a frying pan, cook the carrots and add the cabbage.
Cook for three minutes and then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
To serve
Reheat duck legs in a very hot oven for about 10 minutes. Dress on plate with cabbage.
Bon appétit!
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