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Alexander the Great's Stelios Nicolaou boasts the best kleftiko in London |
The philosopher of fine food
WITH its pretty veranda and outdoor eating area you could be sitting on a Greek island – but actually it’s a traditional Greek taverna in the heart of Camden Town.
Welcome to the Alexander the Great restaurant and its genial host, Stelios Nicolaou, whose relaxed convivial charm will soon have you convinced that perhaps you are still on holiday.
TV presenters Richard and Judy are customers and enjoyed a mixed meze (£16.95 per person) one evening away from the glare of the Channel 4 studios.
For the uninitiated, meze comprises a selection of 14 delicious hot and cold starters, including hummus, salads, and beans, followed by a platter of fish and charcoal grilled meats, which arrive one after another. There’s also a good vegetarian meze (£15.50 per person) and a fish meze (£19.75 per person.)
Stelios came to Britain from Cyprus in 1986 as a chef but soon went into business and launched his first club and restaurant in Watford. He’s run this restaurant, named after the great soldier king Alexander, (356-323) for six years.
“My father ran a restaurant in Greek Cyprus and loved cooking so when I was young I was always helping out,” he says.
“People worked hard in those days. I’d get home from school, do my homework and then work in the restaurant for a few hours.
“I did everything from wait at table, washing up and sometimes they’d let me help with the cooking.”
Today at least four times a week he is up at 3.30am to go to market. “Buying the best and freshest produce is so important,” he adds. “I have to do it myself.”
He drives from his home in Wembley to Smithfield market to personally buy the best meat. He also goes twice a week to Billingsgate market to buy his fish.
His favourite dish? There’s a wistful smile: “It’s the king of all meat dishes, kleftiko”, (£10.95) he says, “and I do the best in all London.”
The art of kleftiko, he explains, is to buy the freshest lamb and cook it slowly for three and a half hours. The meat is cooked in lemon, origami, herbs and spices, and served with roast potatoes.
Another popular meat dish, stifado (£10.95), comprises lean pieces of beef cooked in red wine, onions, vinegar and herbs, served with roast potatoes and rice.
There’s a good choice of excellent wines including the Greek varieties, Aphrodite (white £12.95 a bottle) and Nemea Special (red £16.95). A glass of wine is £2.75 and half a carafe is £6.95.
My colleague and I enjoyed the delicious chef’s mixed platter (£13.95 per person) with taramasalata, hummus, tzatziki, chicken and pork kebabs, with pastourma and loukanika, served with chips and salad.
“My philosophy is simple,” he says. “I want to serve the best food and make people happy.”
PETER GRUNER
Alexander The Great
8 Plender Street, NW1
020 7388 1111 |
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