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Ottolenghi Restaurant, |
Get back to a comfort zone
The credit crunch may be biting at our budgets, but Clare Latimer finds the perfect place to treat yourself
I am sure you are aware that I lean heavily towards traditional recipes for everyday fare in this column, as opposed to trendy food-of-the-day which in my mind is vegetables grilled in an overdose of olive oil, chunks of goat and sheep cheeses chucked in and topped with pan-fried or char-grilled piece of fish or meat.
I feel that we are coming back towards the comfort food area, and this may just be a trend coming full circle or could be to do with the credit crunch and a shortage of money.
The above-mentioned grilled and oil-tossed meal certainly uses more expensive ingredients, but is good for a treat on the odd occasion.
This brings me on to the other evening when I was taken to the famous Ottolenghi restaurant in Islington (pictured).
Fabulous ingredients, very good wine and a great idea: you eat mostly round one large, long table and then just order starter portion plates and share with your friends. It is a brilliant concept and works a treat.
Here are two of their recipes which they are happy to share with us.
Wild rice salad
They do infinite kinds of rice salads at Ottolenghi, mixing different varieties of rice and many combinations of herbs and vegetables.
The secret is getting in enough oil and juices so the rice isn’t dry at all.
Ingredients
Serves 4
250g wild rice
60g peeled pistachios
150g soft dried apricot, soaked in hot water for five minutes
1 small bunch of mint, leaves picked
1 small bunch of rocket
3 spring onions, roughly chopped
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large clove of garlic, crushed
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Method
Place the rice in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and cook for 30-40 minutes, depending on the variety or until the rice is cooked al dente. Drain and rinse under cold water.
While the rice is cooking, roast the pistachios in a dry pan over a medium heat for 8-10 minutes. Coarsely chop them with a large knife. Drain the apricots and coarsely chop them too.
In a bowl mix the rice, apricots and pistachios. Add the rest of the ingredients, toss well and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Mushrooms with cinnamon
This is a gutsy dish. You allow the mushrooms to burn slightly and then absorb lots of lemon juice to create sharp, contrasting flavours. You can serve the mushrooms on a plate of mezzes along-side different roasted and marinated vegetables.
Ingredients
Serves 2
500g mixed button and chestnut mushrooms
50g roughly chopped parsley, plus extra for garnish
3 tsp chopped thyme
2 cinnamon sticks
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
60ml olive oil
40ml lemon juice
? tsp ground cinnamon
½ lemon, very thinly sliced
Salt and pepper.
Method
Heat up the oil in a large flat pan until smoking.
Meanwhile, toss together the mushrooms, herbs, cinnamon sticks and garlic.
Pour into the hot oil and leave on a hot flame 7-9 minutes. Be patient; do not stir or shake the pan.
Now stir the mushroom, allowing any left juices to evaporate. Pour in the lemon juice, ground cinnamon and plenty of salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.
You can serve this warm or at room temperature.
Just make sure you stir in the extra parsley and lemon slices at the last minute. Adjust the seasoning again.
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