The Review - FOOD AND DRINK - Cooking with CLARE Published: 31 July 2008
Living the good life at Roskilly’s in Cornwall
Scoop the cream of Cornwall a lot closer to home
Inspired by the best the West Country can offer, Clare Latimer serves cool-flavoured ice creams
ABOUT 30 years ago Rachel Roskilly asked my parents and me to taste some ice cream she had made in her farm kitchen. It was delicious and now she has one of the best range of ice creams, frozen yoghurts and sorbets in the country. So good, in fact, that Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall has chosen Roskilly’s to make his ice creams after testing many makers.
This farm is tucked down a tiny lane on the Lizard in Cornwall – so why am I writing about it in this column? Well, we were the first shop in London to stock it – I used to rush up and down the motorway with cooler bags in the car; and we now stock a good range as does London Zoo and other local shops. Also their farm is well worth a visit if you are in Cornwall as they have a superb barn restaurant with all home- cooked foods; you can see the Jersey cows being milked and stroke the adorable calves. Or else you can visit their website – www. roskillys.co.uk/
Along with Roskilly’s ice creams we also make and sell our own ice cream at this time of year due to people asking us for special flavours. We use a Magimix Gelato chef 2200 to churn our goodies and it certainly makes a big difference from doing it by hand, but either way works. If you want a taster then come and get cooled down and ice-creamed up with Cornish or Primrose Hill tubs now.
Chocolate and ginger ice cream There are so many flavours you can add to ice creams so have a go and add perhaps orange peel or baby marshmallows to this recipe instead of the ginger. For a dinner party you could serve a scoop in a glass with fresh strawberries cut and placed on top and then a dollop of Cornish clotted cream.
Ingredients Serves 6
250g strong plain chocolate, chopped small
110g unsalted butter
160g caster sugar
160ml water
4 large free range egg yolks
500ml double cream
1 tbsp stemmed ginger in syrup, cut up very small.
Method Put the chocolate and butter into a bowl and stand over hot water until it has melted, or put into a microwave for few seconds and then stir until smooth.
Put the sugar and water into a small saucepan and dissolve the sugar in the water and then turn up the heat and boil rapidly for a few minutes but do not let it start to brown. Leave to cool a little.
Put the egg yolks in a basin and begin whisking, either by hand or with an electric whisk, trickling in the hot syrup as you whisk. Continue whisking until the mixture is thick and fluffy. Whisk in the cream. Then fold in the melted chocolate and butter until thoroughly blended and finally add the stemmed ginger pieces. Pour the mixture into an ice cream machine and churn until frozen or put into a container and stir from the freezer every hour for three hours.
Elderflower and raspberry ice cream This is quite a delicate flavour but one of my favourites.
For a dinner party you could serve in a glass and then top with a splash of Cassis.
Ingredients Serves 6
300ml full fat milk
6 medium free-range egg yolks
100g caster sugar
310ml double cream
200ml elderflower cordial
1 punnet raspberries
Few leaves fresh mint, chopped very finely.
Method Pour the milk into a heavy-based saucepan, bring to the boil and then remove from the heat. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl, pour in the milk and whisk well.
Return to the pan and cook over a low heat for about five minutes, stirring constantly with a whisk. Do not boil. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cream and elderflower cordial.
Leave to cool, and then add the raspberries and mint leaves.
Put into an ice cream machine and leave to churn or put into a container and then stir every hour for three hours and then leave to set.