Camden New Journal - Recipe for Queen of puddings by Clare Latimer

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The Review - FOOD AND DRINK - Cooking with CLARE
Published: 26th August 2008

They may have gone out of fashion, but we can’t let puddings dessert us

Concerned for family unity, and fearing for the future of her sweet tooth, Clare Latimer champions the endangered additional course

I READ in disgust last week that the pudding is going out of fashion. It’s a horrendous thought, especially as I have a sweet tooth!
At this time of year it is very important to stock up with winter fuel and at least twice a week I think a truly traditional and wholesome pudding should be dished up.
Part of the reason for abandoning the pud is due to time, but it can be very quick and easy and it can prolong the family meal, which is very important.
So often in restaurants the puddings do not come up to scratch. I had a part share of a restaurant in Smithfield recently and I always argued that the puddings were not special enough.
But the others said that “people do not eat puddings” and therefore it was not worth making the extra effort.
Well, in my outside catering business the puddings are often the highlight of the meal even if the guests only have smallish portions – although we often see them sneaking back for more later.
Also, in my shop, they get snapped up very quickly. I will even go so far as to say that I lose weight if I eat puddings as it prevents me picking between meals and also stops those yearnings for something sweet as the diet has been perfectly balanced.
So here are two of my favourites.
By the way, I am very excited because a wonderful French bistro has taken over the restaurant beside my shop and their tarte tatin is to die for. I was told to “ferme ma bouche,” but I can’t!

Queen of puddings
This always reminds me of my hero Anton Mosimann’s famous bread and butter pudding, which is mainly wondrous egg custard with a hint of bread. It’s a famous wartime recipe which is not served nearly enough. Vary the jam and perhaps try plum or blackcurrant for a change and cook this forgotten treasure.

Ingredients
Serves 4-6
600ml milk
Grated rind of 1 orange
50g butter, softened
1 tbsp granulated sugar
125g soft white breadcrumbs
6 egg yolks
4 tbsp good strawberry jam
4 egg whites
225g caster sugar.

Method
Preheat the oven to 180C/ 350F/ gas 4. Put the milk and orange zest into a pan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and leave to stand for 10 minutes.
Strain and discard the zest and then add the butter and granulated sugar. Warm gently to melt the butter and sugar. Remove from the heat and add the breadcrumbs and then the egg yolks.
Pour into a buttered 1.75-litre soufflé dish and then stand in a roasting tin three-quarters full of hot water. Cook for 30-40 minutes or until set. Remove from the water. Turn the oven up to 230C/ 450F/ gas 8. Spread the jam over the top of the pudding and then make the meringues. Whisk the egg whites in a large, clean, dry bowl and then gradually add the caster sugar, whisking continuously. Spoon the stiff meringue mix over the pudding, covering well and then cook for about eight minutes or until the top is golden brown. Serve hot with cream.

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