A great burger is all about knowing when to stop – the Grand Union’s skilfully created dishes take Dan Carrier back to his early attempts at the ultimate combination
WHEN I was a kid, my brother and I would play a game called “Scooby Snacks”.
It consisted of sneaking to the fridge and trying to create a sandwich which contained as many different ingredients as we could find, and was named after the cartoon character Scooby-Doo – the ghost-hunting dog who always found the kitchen in whichever haunted house he was investigating and ate everything he could lay his paws on.
Inspired by such Hanna-Barbera high jinks, we both became quite adept at making rolls with perhaps four or five more fillings than are strictly necessary.
And eating at the Grand Union in Camden Road, a pub/bar/restaurant, I was reminded of my brother’s great skill: to blend enough flavours in a rather small space (between two bits of bread) yet know when to stop.
The clever Grand Union chefs have created a menu that consists of various top-quality burgers with a variety of additions. The range is immense and the ideas brilliant, if somewhat indulgent. From the straightforward Classic burger – relish, beef, tomato, lettuce and mayo’ – through to the Avocado & Bacon Combo – the classic with avocado and streaky bacon added – they have covered so many bases.
Chilli burgers, satay burgers, blue cheese burgers – and that’s just the beef. You can also choose lamb. The Greek sounds particularly nice, with houmous, cucumber raita, fresh chilli sauce, and then chicken burgers: Chicken and Camembert shows the Scooby-style fun they have each day.
Veggies can go for falafel burgers and a chargrilled aubergine with goats cheese. I had the aubergine stack and it was great – a sneaky sun-dried tomato had snuggled up to the other ingredients – a pleasantly tasty surprise.
And with the smoking ban and a well-arranged decor, I can see myself enjoying eating there on Friday nights.
It can be busy in the Grand Union – they get cool DJs to play in all of their four bars – but rather than put me off ordering food, it’s a bonus. I recall the days when the fare available at my local pub stretched to the cleaning lady shoving a big wedge of mature cheddar cheese in a soft, white bap, squeezing roughly cut chunks of raw onion in as well, and then charging 60p for the pleasure.
Nowadays we expect more from our pub-dining experience.
And the Grand Union Group – so-called because their first venture was the pub that is right by the Grand Union Canal – have taken it a step further. This is not a gastro-pub, nor a tarted-up boozer. It is a good-looking bar that sells good-looking cocktails and grills a pretty mean burger.
You can see where the owners wish to lead you. The decor is stylish and not cloney. It has managed to avoid the trap of going too far and forgetting it is a bar at all and being just a restaurant. Instead, you feel it respects the fact this is a Victorian boozer, sensitively updated. William Morris-style printed wallpaper adorns both their Camden Road and Highgate Road bars. Fat, comfy sofas and armchairs provide post-work lounge space, while booths make for a more intimate dining experience. The whole thing is very laid back.
OK, so the important thing is the food, and the burgers are a step up from other, apparently gourmet eating experiences the humble patty in a bun has become.
The chefs prepare their minced beef – all 100 per cent traditionally farmed and from English herds – with a blend of herbs and seasonings. The buns too are pretty good – baked fresh daily, soft, squidgy in all the right places. With chunky chips served with lots of different sauces, the sides are superb, and it was the grandest burger I have had in some time. • The Grand Union,
102-104 Camden Road, NW1. 020 7485 5430. Also at 53-79 Highgate Road, NW5.
020 7485 1837 and 153 Upper Street, N1. www.granduniongroup. co.uk
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