The Review - FOOD & DRINK- The Wine Press with DON & JOHN Published: 6 Decemeber 2007
Why not have a Languedoc Christmas!
Supermarkets leave us to mull over our festive wine
As the big stores begin rolling out their Christmas gimmicks, taking time to find the independent suppliers allows us to leave the retail giants on the shelf
THE supermarkets are all producing their Christmas drinks guides. The problem is that the range of wines promoted is narrow, often overpriced and described in clichés that convey little real meaning. Taking the Sainsbury’s publication as a typical example, we find a hotchpotch of marketing jargon with various short notes titled “Christmas in a glass”, “Our man in Chablis”, “Bring on the Bubbly”, “Fabulous France” and “Celebrate the Cape”, rounded off with “Brewed Awakening” (about beer).
This year, we’re recommending six wines, five of which come from Languedoc. We’ve chosen them because they are as far away from the supermarkets as it’s possible to get.
You’ll find some Languedoc wines in British supermarkets. Larger producers such as Gerard Bertrand or Laurent Miquel are there. What’s missing, however, is the remarkable variety of the region and, in particular, its interesting smaller producers. But these wines can be found, the only question being where?
There are probably at least as many Languedoc wines in restaurants as in most retail outlets.
Restaurateurs resist featuring wines on their lists that can be found in supermarkets and Languedoc represents the best value certainly for French wines and perhaps in the world.
For retail outlets, we have three recommendations, two in London and Britain’s only Languedoc specialist, in North Yorkshire.
City Beverage Co, 303 Old Street EC1 (020-7729 2111), a favourite of ours, has again stolen a march on their competitors. They have identified Languedoc’s potential, forging links with Foncalieu, an agricultural collective that includes one of France’s oldest and most important co-ops. This arrangement gives the impetus to the technical resources at the top, making the most of a superb production infrastructure.
Foncalieu uses both classic (ie traditional) techniques and innovative modern technology. This clever arrangement doesn’t compromise the wine-maker’s independence, but nonetheless gives them access to an amazing range of marketing and support services, avoiding the trade-offs larger producers make.
From a recent City Beverage Co tasting, we selected three reds:
Château St Angel £6.50. A full-bodied blend of four grapes (syrah, merlot, grenache noir & cabernet sauvignon) with Bordeaux complexity and Mediterranean liveliness. Château Serres Sainte-Lucie AOC Corbières 2004, £6.95. Satisfying, deep, acidic, long-lasting taste.
Domaine de Perets AOC Fitou 2004, £6.50. This wine, from the Roussillon part of the region is included on the recommendation of City Beverage Co, but was out of stock at the time of writing.
They describe it as a “traditionally big wine [with] a touch more subtlety than usual”.
We’ve already recommended Château La
Tour Boisée. Even so, it’s worth repeating two of these for very different reasons. Both are available from Waterloo Wines, 59-61 Lant Street, SEI, close to Borough tube, (020 7403 7967).
Carignan, VDP Coteaux de Peyriac 2006 £4.95. A simple French peasant wine representing the best of a disappearing type and reminding us of the true meaning of tradition.
Jardin Secret blanc AOC Minervois 2001, £9.25. More expensive than our other recommendations, but comparable with the best French whites.
Our third supplier is one we haven’t mentioned before, Terroir Ltd in Skipton, North Yorkshire, run by Gemma Crangle.
This is the only outlet in the country specialising exclusively in Languedoc. Gemma only buys from small individual producers, so prices are likely to be higher than those above. Tel: 0845 1297344 for more details.
These wines are particularly recommended as value for money. This Christmas, money is likely to be tighter, and these wines offer value and quality.
One additional recommendation with nothing to do with Languedoc: the frizzante (semi-sparkling) Mioniotto Legatura Rosé £8.95 from City Beverage Co. A concentrated yet delicate rosé that will match any dessert.
City Beverage has teamed up with Melange at 281 Kingsland Road (07722 650711) to offer chocolate to complement this wine. Isabelle, the chocolate expert at Melange can also be found at Spitalfields Market on Fridays and Brick Lane on Sundays.
Finally, for a different angle on wine, you might try Roger Corder’s new book The Wine Diet: A Complete Nutrition and Lifestyle Plan, Sphere £9.99.
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