The Review - FOOD & DRINK- Cooking with CLARE Published: 29 November 2007
Whiting: a fish that should mean more to us than a line in Alice in Wonderland
Investigate a whole new world of fish – without a snorkel!
Clare Latimer welcomes a top fishmonger back to the West End
THE new James Knight of Mayfair fish counter at Selfridges food hall offers the perfect solution to shoppers looking for both the best fish as well as the best advice. Originally founded in Shepherds Market, Mayfair, in 1908, London’s premier fishmonger is delighted to be returning to the West End.
They are the only fishmonger in England to hold two Royal warrants and are also the preferred supplier for a number of top London restaurants.
The company always stocks the very best quality fresh fish, all of which comes from responsible, well-managed and sustainable fisheries.
They display 150 different products, and there is the opportunity for customers to try something new every day for the next six months.
Get adventurous with silver sabre or stone bass or enjoy traditional favourites such as potted shrimps, skate knobs and whelks.
They kindly gave me some whiting, stone bass and some farmed organic brown trout to try and certainly I have never tasted fresher, firmer fish.
It is well worth the trip to find out about the world of fish without having to wear a snorkel.
Whiting with banana and nutmeg
Whiting is probably best known for asking the snail to walk a little faster in Alice in Wonderland, but it should not be forgotten these days.
As cod has been so dramatically dragged from the sea, the close relative should become a favourite on our plates.
It should be bought very fresh as it loses its flavour over time.
Like cod, this fish is best in winter so now is your chance.
This combination is weird so you may rather use leeks instead of banana, but I love it.
Ingredients Serves 2
2 whiting, cleaned and filleted
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small onion, peeled and chopped finely
Juice of 1 lime
25g butter
1 small banana
Nutmeg, freshly grated
Chopped parsley to garnish.
Method Preheat the oven 180C / 350F / gas 4. Put the fillets onto a sheet of foil large enough to wrap them properly. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and the onion. Squeeze over the lime juice and put the butter in small knobs down the top of the fish.
Peel the banana and cut in half lengthways and then in half. Place the pieces on the top of the fish. Grate over the fresh nutmeg and wrap well.
Cook in the oven for 15-20 minutes or until the flesh is just cooked. Sprinkle with fresh parsley and serve.
Stone bass ceviche
Ceviche is raw marinated seawater fish. The marinade used in ceviche is citrus based, with lemons and limes being the most common.
In addition to adding flavour, the citric acid causes the proteins in the seafood to “cook” the fish without heat. The result tastes more like a cooked dish and less like raw fish. It is very healthy but the fish must come from a superb fishmonger such as the above mentioned. There are many other fish to use so discuss this with the experts.
Ingredients Serves 4
340g very fresh stone bass, boned, skinned and filleted
Juice of 2 limes
Juice of 1 large orange
1 small red pepper, cored, deseeded and chopped small
1 small yellow pepper, cored, deseeded and chopped small
1 small red onion, peeled and chopped small
1 tbsp olive oil
Small handful chopped coriander ¼ teasp course sea salt.
Method Using a very sharp knife cut the fish into small cubes and place in a bowl.
Add the lime juice, orange juice, the peppers and onion and stir gently to mix all flavours together. Cover and put into the fridge for one hour. Stir once or twice during this time.
Add the olive oil, coriander and salt and stir well again.
Serve in glasses with slices of granary brown toast.
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Whiting: a fish that should mean more to us than a line in Alice in Wonderland 
