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The Review - Food & Drink - Cooking with CLARE LATIMER
Published 7 September 2006
 
It's the season to throw a party

The summer’s nearly gone, the nights are drawing in, but it’s not autumn yet so make the best of the remaining good weather, writes Clare Latimer

I ALWAYS feel very blessed that I was born in September, as it is the perfect month to have a party. Everyone has been away in August and it is the perfect time to have a get together.
Also the weather is often still wonderful with just that hint of cooler, darker evenings reminding us that we are going to get tucked up for the winter with central heating and thick duvets but it is not quite there yet.
I feel that I have rather let the last few weeks go without too much going on partly due to the earlier heat wave that seemed to zap my energy and then the holiday atmosphere seemed to take over, but now I am raring to go so here’s to a new and exciting autumn so lets start with a party to get everyone together again.
I have the excuse of a birthday but just have that party and see all your friends again.

Cassoulet
I have taken the meat off the bones for this dish but if you prefer you could leave the meat in joints. I will be serving it with garlic bread made with French sticks and a green salad.

Serves 14-18
Ingredients

900g of haricot beans, rinsed and soaked overnight;
450g of pork belly, in one piece;
One x 3.8 kilo Aylesbury duck or chicken, jointed;
1x2 kilo of rabbit, jointed;
Five garlic cloves, peeled and crushed;
Salt and freshly ground black pepper;
One bunch mixed fresh herbs, tied in string, or Two bouquet garni;
four sticks celery, washed, strings removed and chopped;
One tbsp brown sugar;
225g Cumberland sausages, browned;
225g brown breadcrumbs;
three large sprigs of parsley.

Method
Place the beans in water to cover, boil rapidly for 10 minutes, then drain. Put the pork belly, duck or chicken, rabbit, 3 garlic cloves, salt and freshly ground black pepper and herbs into a very large saucepan, then add the beans. Cover with 2.4 litres of warm water and bring to the boil.
Reduce the heat, cover and simmer for one hour or until the duck or chicken is well cooked. Remove the pork belly, rabbit and poultry joints. Add the celery, brown sugar and sausages.
Simmer for 30 minutes without the lid. Meanwhile, remove the rind from the pork belly and cut up into bite-sized pieces, remove the flesh from the rabbit and poultry and then put all the meats back into the saucepan and cook for a further 10 minutes. Heat the oven to 200C 400F Gas mark six.
Blend the breadcrumbs with the remaining garlic and parsley. Pour the cassoulet into a large, ovenproof dish, test for seasoning, sprinkle over the breadcrumbs and bake for 20 minutes or until the crumbs are slightly browned. Turn the heat down to low until ready to serve.

Lemon Mousse
After that hefty main I suggest this very light and fresh and tangy mousse that is one of the really old favourites in our kitchen.
It never fails to please and can be decorated with cream and fresh raspberries over the top.

Serves 6
Ingredients

Six eggs, separated;
Six tbsp caster sugar;
Juice and finely grated rind of two lemons;
OneΩ heaped desp gelatine.
150ml double cream, whipped;
225g fresh raspberries, optional.

Method
Put the egg yolks, sugar and lemon rind in a mixing bowl and beat until thick and creamy. Put the lemon juice in a small saucepan, sprinkle the gelatine powder over it then set aside.
Beat the egg whites until stiff. Gently heat the gelatine and when melted, fold into the yolk mixture using a metal spoon.
Then fold in the whipped cream and egg whites. From the moment the gelatine goes in the rest must follow quickly as the gelatine will start to set. Fold-in well and then pour into a serving bowl and chill.
When ready to serve, garnish with the fresh raspberries and perhaps sprinkle over some cocoa powder.
 
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