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 Clare Allan, right, with Ottolenghi’s Basir Murphy |
Delicatessen of delights
Whether it’s eat-in or takeaway, for author Clare Allan there’s nothing more satisfying than the crunchy salads at Ottolenghi, writes Peter Gruner
NOT that long ago, lunchtime for author Clare Allan would have meant standing in line with other patients at a Highgate mental hospital, waiting for the usual plate of unappetising fatty lamb.
Ten years on, with her successful first novel Poppy Shakespeare under her belt (and currently being made into a Channel 4 feature film), Clare’s life has taken a fantastic turn for the better.
This lunchtime we are sitting in the bright and airy Ottolenghi in Upper Street, Islington, surrounded by sumptuous bowls of Mediterranean food, including mouth-watering bread and vegetables.
What a contrast to the dismal old mental hospital’s eating area depicted in the book. There, “Canteen Coral” would call out “peas or carrots?” (you can’t have both) as she mechanically ladled portions of food on to plates held out by patients.
Although the book is pure fiction, it is a brilliant satire based on Clare’s own often-traumatic experiences at the now-closed Belle Ridley psychiatric day hospital in Highgate Hill.
It’s the story of a single mum, Poppy, bizarrely being declared mentally ill after applying for a media course and trying to prove her sanity in a world of institutionalised madness.
The book is also an extraordinary concoction of the most colourful characters you’ll ever meet – political agitator Middle Class Michael, Rhona the Moaner and Manic Pollyanna.
Today, however, we are being looked after by Ottolenghi’s very genial general manager, Basir Murphy, and choosing from a menu that includes delicious oven-baked hake and roasted aubergine.
As well as campaigning for better conditions for mental patients, Clare writes a column for the Guardian and has travelled to the US and Canada to promote the book, which is being translated into many languages.
Currently working on her new novel, set in the world of newspapers, Clare knows it is important to keep fit and eat well.
“I have a little dog who I take for walks,” she said. “I tend not to cook very much but when I do I like good, wholesome food.
“Ottolenghi does lots of wonderful salads with raw vegetables and I’ll often have a takeaway. You get a box and choose what you want. The salads are substantial and you can have fish or chicken to go with it.”
We both started with a glass of the house dry white wine, which was excellent. We shared a selection of home-made breads, which included sourdough, corn bread and focaccia with extra virgin olive oil (£3.50).
Clare had the French bean, sweet potato and roasted yellow pepper salad with tarragon, nigella seeds and confit garlic (£6.50).
I enjoyed the tasty roasted aubergine with chilli, oregano, coriander and green tahini sauce, also £6.50.
The meal was completed with the finest Pavlova pudding either of us had ever tasted, made from delicate meringue, fruit and fresh cream.
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