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The Review - Restaurants - Tatiana Von Saxe
 

Simpsons has catered for many famous guests over the years
The very best of British Fare

I doubt there is a better restaurant in London for true British bill of fare than Simpson’s-in-the-Strand.
Since 1828 the then Simpson’s Grand Divan Tavern catered for famous guests, including Benjamin Disraeli, Charles Dickens and William Gladstone. And whilst the customs are now more relaxed than in those days as ladies are welcome and gentlemen can dine without jackets, one still feels the overpowering atmosphere of history embedded in their walls.
The large room is austere and elegant. Four large chandeliers preside over elegant laid
tables, comfortable cubicles on one side and small tables for two on the other next to large windows. The centre piece in the back of the impressive room is a large painting by Baron Rozenkranz, named Wasn’t it a Dainty dish to Set Before the King.
This is unique as only another one is known to exist painted by the same person. This other one, though, I believe is hidden at Claridge’s as during some refurbishment they covered it up as they were not allowed to destroy it but it did not go with the new decor. Table 53 for two in front of the painting is the best table if you can get it. Regulars love it.
In 1848 John Simpson introduced the practice of wheeling the large joints of meat on silver dinner trolleys to each table and carving them in front of guests. This continues to be done today. The original trolleys are still in service and star carver, Giuseppe, who has been with Simpson’s for 47 years is a pleasure to watch. He asks how you wish the meat served and professionally he carves it exactly what you asked for.
The slices are placed on the plate with thin gravy around it, freshly grated horseradish and a gorgeous Yorkshire pudding for the beef (£22.95) and redcurrant jelly for the lamb (£20.50).
A separate dish is then brought with cabbage and roast potatoes. I honour the tradition of placing a piece of silver (now a pound coin) on the carver’s table.
This is a lovely place to come for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Their legendary breakfast offers Ten Deadly Sins, the Great British Breakfast or a Healthy one. The Ten Deadly Sins include Cumberland sausage, fried egg, streaky and back bacon, black pudding, lamb’s kidneys, fried bread, liver, bubble and squeak, baked beans, grilled mushrooms and tomato (£19.95) plus toast, pastries, fresh orange juice, cereals, porridge, stewed fruit and coffee. Crosswords and newspapers are complimentary.
Their house wine at £24 is very good unless you prefer of course the Chateauneuf du Pape at £77.
They offer a pre-theatre Bill of Fare at £22.50 for two courses and their Knight’s Bar is a charming art deco cocktail lounge with a pianist in the evenings.
On a week when we are thinking of the best British food to serve to Her Majesty on her birthday, we can all enjoy the best Aberdeen Angus beef (aged 28 days), calves’ liver with onion marmalade, Bubble and Squeak, Dover Sole, Cornish Crab and Finman Haddock. A truly English institution, The typical dishes are cooked just as they should and the service is impeccable with everyone making you feel quite at home.
Simpon’s heads towards its 200th anniversary with the knowledge that innovation can co-exist happily with tradition.

Simpsons -in-the-Strand
100 Strand, WC2
Tel: 020 7836 9112
 
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