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Supermarket specials
Buyers beware, the most expensive wine doesn't always turn out to be
the best on the shelf
SUPERMARKET Wine Rules OK wrote Jane McQuitty in the Times
recently. She was responding to comments made in this column,
concerning the damage being done to traditional artisan-style
wine producers by the supermarket-driven rush for a diminishing
number of big companies to produce large volumes of universally
fashionable but similar tasting wines. Anyone ignoring supermarket
wine will miss out she declared.
This is true. Supermarkets supply a great range of mass-produced
wine. Sold cheap this wine is a good buy. Unfortunately the
trend has been to introduce new wines, hype them and than overcharge.
In a series of recent Sauvignon tastings, we were amazed at
how many participants – all regular wine drinkers –
thoroughly disliked all the wines they were drinking, some costing
between £8 and £10 a bottle.
This week, we put three cheap wines to members of our testing
panel. Two from a supermarket – one a bottom shelf bargain,
normally low priced. The other double the price but with a big
temporary discount. Our third wine is a convenience store special
offer. With all the fuss about the growth of supermarket wine
sales, few have noticed that the convenience store share of
the UK wine market is also on the increase. They now supply
around a fifth of the market.
Renards Hill, Crisp, Refreshing White Wine 2003, Vin de Pays
du Comte Tolosan. France 2003. 11.5 per cent Morrison’s
£2.99.
Made in Gascony South West France, from a blend of Columbard,
Ugni Blanc and Saugvignon grapes.
This wine is produced by Les Caves de Landiras, a regional winery
taken over by a Bordeaux wine company which was itself then
brought by one of France’s biggest drinks exporting companies,
Les Grand Chais de France.
The Vin de Pays tag guarantees that the wine is subject to legally
enforced controls, as to grape growing, bottle content and some
aspects of the production process.
Not bad for £2.99. But will our panel members like the
taste? Will they agree with the producers that this is a crisp
and refreshing wine?
Villa Girasole, Soave, DOC 2004. Verona, Italy 11.5 per cent
Costcutter and other convenience stores £3.99 (2 for £5)
From the North East of Italy, home to Some of Italy’s most
successful wine exporting regions.
This area is the home of Soave, Valpolocella, Bardolina, Prosecco
and several other well-known wines. Italy is the world’s
biggest wine producer and exporter.
The wine is produced by the family owned Vinicola Tombacco winery
– one of Italy’s biggest wine companies. Founded in
1919, it has reacted to the New World wine invasion by modernizing
its winery. It bristles with gizmos and gadgets and they are
not afraid to use them. This wine has not being allowed to ferment
in peace and is described as dry, soft and harmonious.
Out of Africa, Chardonnay, Western Cape. South Africa 12.5 per
cent Morrison’s £3.99 special offer usual price £5.99.
The producers claim a hand crafted wine made from grapes grown
with careful biological principles and picked by hand at night.
In the winery, nature – they say – has been allowed
free reign and there has been minimum intervention by the producers.
Some oak aging with 40 per cent of the barrels being used for
the first time.
The wine is produced by the Sonopa winery, one of three owned
by the African Terroir group, recently acquired by a Swiss multi-national
wine company. On paper this wine is a real bargain and far superior
to the other wines in this testing.
But are the producers claims simply hype and is this wine in
reality no better or perhaps even worse then the other two?
The six-member panel was comprised of two experienced and four
new members. Our regulars plumped for the South African, Chardonnay.
It had more taste and was clearly a superior wine they said.
Our virgin testers were not shy or backward when it came to
stating their case. It was Renards Hill, the French wine with
the Anglo name that got their vote. It was, they insisted, a
well-balanced nice and not too strong tasting wine. One complained
that the Out of Africa, Chardonnay burned her gullet. The end
of the night saw general agreement that all three wines were
very drinkable and good value. But at £5.99, its usual
selling price, The Out of Africa, Chardonnay would be overpriced.
The winner, Renards Hill White Crisp Refreshing wine, it was
enjoyed by our four new additions and given second preference
by the other panel members. Sold at these prices ranging from
£2.50 to £3.99 all three wines are a worthwhile
buy. Cheap wine rules, okay! |
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