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Christian with chefs Aljal Hussain and Zahir Hussain outside the restaurant
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Indian’s a great place
to discuss the railways
Britain’s foremost commentator on the railways Christian Wolmar heads for the Indian Ocean, writes Peter Gruner
WITH the railways in the news Christian Wolmar is the man every journalist turns to for an expert view. He’ll be on the radio or in print, reminding us of the crass stupidity of privatisation and the industry’s frequent inability to provide cheap and reliable transport.
Christian, the former Independent newspaper transport correspondent, has made a name for himself as the voice of the long-suffering passenger, commenting on the continuous cock-ups and catastrophes of Britain’s fragmented railways.
However, as much as he despises the bureaucratic ineptitude of the industry, he admits to a long-running love affair with the railways. He will even praise the companies when they manage to provide a half decent service.
His favourite eatery is the Indian Ocean in Holloway Road, where they
provide special private eating booths, which Christian likens to old-fashioned first-class train travel.
Here he can sit undisturbed at lunchtime and read or write while eating delicious home-cooked style spicy food.
He has several books under his belt, including the popular Subterranean Railway – the story about the beginnings of the London underground.
A new book, Fire and Steam, a history of railways in Britain from 1825 to the present day, is due out later this year, published by Atlantic.
He’s been coming to the Indian Ocean for about 12 years. “I don’t like the old-style dark curry house,” he says. “It’s light and airy here. The food is excellent, well priced, and always freshly prepared.
“They even serve the food in nice white bowls rather than from metal hot plates.”
The modern railway, Christian says, has been a story of great contradictions.
“It’s been a great success on one hand, but privatisation has pushed up the costs in a ridiculous way. Yet paradoxically usage has increased by 40 per cent and is growing each year by 10 to 12 per cent.
“Travelling by train can be unpleasant when it is overcrowded. It is also very expensive if you book on the day.
“However, it’s a great way to travel and relax and there are some fantastic bargains if you are prepared to book in advance.”
We started with Channa and dall tikki (£3.95) – chickpeas and lentil fritters cooked with garlic and spring onions.
We also shared a plate of Aloo Chops (£2.95), pan-fried potato patties with coriander leaves and crushed mustard.
This was followed by Murgi morisa (£7.95), grilled chicken cooked with green pepper and chillies, ladies fingers (£2.95), steamed basmati rice (£1.95), and
and nan (£1.50. There was also dall mirchi (£4.95), mixed vegetables and pulses and Paneer Koftas (£5.95), soft cheese dumplings stuffed with crushed nuts and grated coconut.
Christian’s own favourite means of transport, other than the train, is his bicycle, which he uses to get to and from his home in Holloway. “Motorists wouldn’t agree, but I think road humps have been wonderful for cyclists,” he said. “They slow the traffic down. Since Tufnel Park Road has been humped, most of the traffic goes at a safer 20 mph.”
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