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Making their mark, in Town this week, at the Wines from Spain Trade Fair, held at Old Billingsgate, Spanish women winemakers Adrianna Ochoa (left) a new wave traveling winemaker, who produces modern wines from traditional grapes, with colleague Sara Peraz (centre) and winemaker Victoria Benavides who with her partner also named Victoria, produces wines at Bodegas Y Vinas dos Victorias (Toro region), the winery they both founded in 1998 |
Out with the old, in with the new
Will traditional Spanish winemaking disappear in the rush for modernisation?
WINEMAKERS apologising for the winemaking sins of their fathers are nothing new. The French have been doing it for a couple of years but it was a surprise to hear it from young Spanish producers. They used to be such laid back viticulturists.
With more land dedicated to the vine than any other country, the Spanish somehow manage to produce far less wine than the Italians or the French.
But times have changed; modern Spain is a committed supporter of free market economics. There is talk of abandoning the traditional siesta and an increasing number of its 54 wine regions are attempting to “modernise” and export their wines.
The UK is a key target and Spanish wine makers have placed themselves in the hands of our marketing industry. The Spanish know this approach works, the Australians and Chileans – to name but two – have marketed their way onto the UK wine shelves, now they hope, the magic will work for them.
The formula has been revised but remains essentially the same. Spanish wine-making – we’re told – has modernised.
Thanks to a growing army of young Spanish winemakers who sport winemaking degrees and have worked abroad in France and the new world.
Spain now favours stainless steel tanks, technological innovation and fruity wines. Experimentation is the buzz word and modern wine with a Spanish twist, the objective.
As is usual with modern winemaking, producer consolidation through mergers and take overs is common.
Drinks giant Pernod Ricard is already one of the biggest wine producers in the country. Adios old wine world, hola, New Spain.
For over a century Rioja has been Spain’s top international wine and is available everywhere wine is sold.
Traditionally Rioja was made by small farmer producers, then blended and bottled by wholesalers – now big modern wine companies dominate the entire process. They have changed the nature of the wine.
Until recently Tempranillo grapes were subjected to an ingenious process of fast, low tech fermentation, followed by, long aging, in old American oak barrels, producing a distinctive and original wine.
Now modern methods and French oak barrels are destroying Riojan origionality and the wine has a contrived fruity taste, similar to countless other modern wines.
Rioja, for so long Spain’s undisputed export leader, is facing competition from other modernised regions – Rais Baixas is the new Spanish star.
Its Galician white wines made from the local Albarino grape are said to be the perfect partner for shellfish and good with fish stews. Waitrose, Pazo de Seoane, Albarino, 75cl 2005 and Oddbins, Burgans, Albarino, 75cl, 2005 offer an example at £8.49.
The Priorat wine region in Catalonia is the latest manifestation of a modern phenomenon – a trendy region that suddenly appears on the wine scene. Fifteen years ago it was completely unknown. Then stories appeared in the international wine press – a handful of winemakers, were producing brilliant, untypical Spanish wine in a tiny area to the south of Barcelona.
Fuelled by targeted marketing, demand for Priorat wines grew and prices rose. Soon the area was swamped by hoards of band wagon jumping wine makers. If you want to know what all the fuss was about, Waitrose, which stocks wines from 15 of the 54 Spanish wine regions, have, Coma Vella, 2003, Mas d’en Gil, (red) 75cl, from the Priorat region at £16.99.
They also sell Spain’s most expensive wine, Vega Sicilia Unico, (red) 1987, from the Ribera del Duero region, a snip at £135 for a 75cl bottle. But hurry, stocks are limited.
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