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Maxwell Hutchinson, with owner Clive Greenhalgh, is served a glass of White Shield by waitress Matilda Jaine |
Architect Max likes his beer poured just right
Peter Gruner meets architect Maxwell Hutchinson who loves to eat in Clerkenwell’s Exmouth Market
WHEN he’s not expounding on BBC Breakfast TV about the beauty, or lack of it, of London’s modern buildings and skyline, Maxwell Hutchinson will wander along to his favourite restaurant in Clerkenwell.
Fortunately for him The Ambassador is only a few doors away from his architects’ studio in busy Exmouth Market, where he works on design schemes to restore historic churches.
The restaurant is also happily close to the Most Holy Redeemer Church, where he worships on Sunday and is churchwarden.
Maxwell says he feels at peace with the world sitting outside the Ambassador on a sunny day, even in February, wearing his distinctive black rimmed hat and coat and sipping his favourite bottled beer, White Shield.
But it won’t stop him worrying about the appalling state of the pavements and the fact that they still allow non-delivery vehicles access through his beloved Exmouth Market, despite it being technically a pedestrianised zone.
Since the Ambassador opened 10 months ago owner Clive Greenhalgh, a member of the active Exmouth Market Traders Association, hasn’t looked back.
Customers flocking to the simple no frills eatery include notables such as Janet Street Porter and the director of the Tate Gallery Sir Nicolas Serota.
“I was one of the first customers here when it first opened,” says Maxwell. “The food is brilliant and this is one of the few places where I can get Worthington’s White Shield, a live beer that is fermented in the bottle. You don’t seem to get it in pubs anymore. It is one of those beers that have to be poured very carefully or you ruin it. They know how to pour it here.”
Maxwell enjoys the ambience of the Ambassador, which he describes as comfortable, unfussy and continental style. There are fresh flowers and fruit on the bar, and a relaxed friendly service.
“It’s great to sit here on Friday or Saturday when they have the market and just observe,” he adds. “This market has only been going for a few months but with a wonderful range of food and clothing stalls it has transformed the area.”
We had the two course set lunch for £12.50 each. For starters Maxwell had steamed mussels with white wine and cream and I had pork rillettes with toast and onion marmalade. “I tell you what,” says Maxwell. “This is really good.” I had to agree.
For the main course we both tucked into the delicately tasting fillet of gurnard fish, radicchio and crushed potatoes. “Now that fish was absolutely gorgeous,” he sas. And again I had to agree.
A well as lunch the restaurant serves breakfast (buttermilk pancakes with treacle bacon), Sunday brunch (Macaroni cheese), and dinner including another of Maxwell’s favourite dishes, fillet of gilthead bream, borlotti beans, chorizo and red peppers.
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