A tasty lifetime award for Elena Salvoni, Queen of Soho

APPLAUSE rang round the auditorium of the Grosvenor Hotel on Tuesday night when more than 1,000 people stood up to congratulate an Angel woman’s lifetime achievement.

Standing on stage, bewildered and with tears in her eyes, was legendary Queen of Soho, Maitre d’ and friend to the stars, Elena Salvoni, aged 91.

Elena, from Noel Road, had no idea she was going to be a winner of one of the world’s most prestigious catering awards. Right up to the last minute details of winners had been kept secret.

In fact, earlier that day she had already decided that for the first time in years she would not be attending the annual Caterer and Hotelkeeper magazine event.

Elena is still mourning the death of her husband Aldo, aged 91, in May this year. They were married for more than 60 years. 

It was only at the insistence of her son Louie, who offered to escort her to the ceremony, that she reluctantly decided to attend.

Louie, who runs Islington-based homeless charity Shelter from the Storm, took time off from running the night shelter to accompany his mother.

He said: “I told mum that dad, if he had been alive, would have wanted her to go. That changed her mind. But she thought she’d be just sitting at a table and saying hello to a few old friends. She never thought she’d be called out for an amazing award.”

She is the first woman to receive the lifetime achievement award, which recognises her zest and enthusiasm for front-of-house services in the restaurant industry.

Elena, who has already received the MBE, said: “It was such a thrill to be honoured by so many important people in the catering industry. When I got the standing ovation I saw customers in the crowd who I’ve known for years.

“I gave a little speech, but don’t ask me what I said. It was such a wonderful evening.”

Her career has spanned eight decades, starting, at the age of 14, at Café Bleu in Soho before following restaurant manager Joseph Paccino to Bianchi’s, where she worked for 30 years. 

Aged 65, Elena tried to retire, but her talents were so much in demand she continued to work for more than another two decades, first at L’Escargot and finally at L’Etoile.

She was finally forced to retire last year because she could no longer be insured.

She still, however, hosts a twice-monthly “lunch with Elena” event at Little Italy restaurant.

Loyal and devoted customers include theatre impresario Cameron Mackintosh, actor Sean Connery, singer Rod Stewart and TV presenter Michael Palin.

Celebrity Stephen Fry, a regular at her table, once described Elena as “my second mother and the kindest woman in London”.

Born in Clerkenwell to Italian parents, Elena left school to work in the rag trade and was a neighbour of playwright Joe Orton, “before he got famous”.

She has lived in Noel Road since 1933, when the house belonged to her parents, and still shops at Chapel Market and nearby Sainsbury’s.

Elena has two grown-up children, six grandchildren and three great-grandchildren.

Published: 8th July, 2011
by PETER GRUNER