Wild mushroom foragers ‘cashing in’ on Hampstead Heath
Conservationists fear commercial interest in wild mushrooms could damage green space
Published: 18th November, 2010
by JAMIE WELHAM
THE rise of illegal foraging for wild mushrooms on Hampstead Heath has sparked calls for tougher action after warnings it is threatening wildlife and causing environmental damage.
The number of foragers on the Heath has risen dramatically over the past year, with some reportedly picking mushrooms in commercial quantities to sell to restaurants, driven by the celebrity chef-inspired trend for cooking with wild ingredients.
René Redzepi, owner and chef at the two-Michelin-star Copenhagen restaurant Noma – recently voted the best restaurant in the world – spoke about his experiences of searching for mushrooms on the Heath on the BBC’s Today programme this week.
“We do it for the sake of the flavours, for a person who wants to cook the freshest way possible, with the best flavour and have real connection with nature – that’s what makes sense to me,” he said.
But the Heath and Hampstead Society has said it will ask the City of London, which manages the 800-acre green space, to consider taking a more hardline stance to limit the practice which it says is leaving some previously green areas barren.
Mushroom picking and foraging for any other leaf, berry or herb is technically illegal on the Heath without a licence under the terms of a local byelaw, but objectors say it isn’t enforced.
Half a kilogram of foraged mushrooms can be sold for between £20 and £30.
The Heath and Hampstead Society also raised concerns that inexperienced foragers risked picking poisonous varieties of mushrooms, of which there are an estimated 340 species on the Heath.
Jeremy Wright, a member of the conservation group and the Birkbeck College Ecology and Conservation Studies Society, said: “I wouldn’t say there should be a panic about this, but it is a growing problem.
“I saw one person stuffing a massive hessian sack full of them. If it goes on unchecked, it could do real damage because it’s much more harmful than picking the odd blackberry.
“It is already placing stress on some areas leaving them completely denuded which obviously has a knock-on effect on wildlife. We have talked about it informally in the Society, and I think it is something we need to discuss properly. It is up to the City of London to consider implementing a ban, or issuing licences to people.”
The byelaw states: “No person shall remove, uproot, destroy or injure any tree shrub or plant, or pluck any flower bough or leaf, or dig, cut or take any turf, sod, gravel, clay or other substance in any open space.”
Foraging got so out of hand at Epping Forest and Burnham Beeches in Buckinghamshire, also managed by the City, that there is now a blanket ban on picking mushrooms.
A City of London spokeswoman said they were not aware of an increase in foraging
She added: “Fungi picking is contrary to our byelaws. We currently have issued one licence. This allows them [the group Fungi To Be With] to operate on a limited and controlled capacity on the Heath. If our Constabulary catch someone picking fungi, they are given a verbal warning. Whilst we support using and eating local produce, as guardians of the Heath we have to ensure its delicate habitat is protected. We appeal to people to take a responsible attitude to what is an important natural asset for London.”
A number of groups offering foraging tours around the Heath have sprung up in recent years, among them Transition Belsize and Fungi To Be With.
Steve Prowse, who has taken groups on the Heath for everything except mushrooms with his group Transition Belsize, defended foraging.
He said: “Foraging is all the rage and this does raise concerns over sustainability. But I think there is a danger of putting people off foraging. We are very careful to be sustainable, and I must say I was not aware of any restrictions on the heath.”
Former Camden councillor Alexis Rowell, a member of Transition Belsize, said: “I’ve seen large groups of people out collecting mushrooms on the Heath, who are not part of Transition Belsize or any foraging group that I know. As with everything, if it’s done with knowledge, sensitivity and appreciation of nature then it isn’t a problem, but if done for commercial gain or without knowing what you’re doing, we run a risk.”